foodways in the middle east & north africa: a bibliography

This is a work in progress, and will be updated every few months. Currently the list is primarily works in English, although it’s slowly expanding to include others. Thus far I have focused (not exclusively) on historical and cultural studies and cookbooks, rather than policy or scientific publications, based on what I know and my own research interests.

Suggestions for new additions are welcome! ann [dot] gaul [at] gmail [dot] com.

History & Culture

This list includes academic books and articles in addition to blogs, websites, and publications by outlets such as Slow Food chapters in the region.

El-Ariss, Tarek. Trials of Arab Modernity: Literary Affects and the New Political. New York: Fordham University Press, 2013.

Awad, Mohamed, Saḥar Ḥammūdah, and Alexandria and Mediterranean Research Center. A Taste of Alexandria: A Cosmopolitan Flavor, 2009.

Babar, Zahra and Suzi Mirgani, eds. Food Security in the Middle East. Oxford, New York: Oxford University Press, USA, 2014.

Çelik, Semih. “Between History of Humanitarianism and Humanitarianization of History. A Discussion on Ottoman Help for the Victims of the Great Irish Famine, 1845-1852.” WerkstattGeschichte 68 (2015): 13-27.

Ciezadlo, Annia. Day of Honey: A Memoir of Food, Love, and War. New York: Free Press, 2012.

Cook, Michael. “Early Islamic Dietary Law.” Jerusalem Studies in Arabic and Islam 7 (1986): 218-77.

Dmitriev, Kirill. “Poetičeskaya škola al-Ḥīry i istoki arabskoy vinnoy poesii na primere qāfiyyi ʿAdī ibn Zayda al-ʿIbādī” (Russian: The Poetry School of al-Ḥīra and the Origins of the Arabic Wine Song: the qāfiyya of ʿAdī ibn Zayd al-ʿIbādī), in Symbol 58: Syriaca and Arabica, ed. Nikolay Seleznyov, Moscow and Paris 2010, 319–339.

Dursteler, Eric. “Infidel Foods: Food and Identity in Early Modern Ottoman Travel Literature.” Osmanlı Araștırmaları / The Journal of Ottoman Studies 39 (2012): 143-60.

Dursteler, Eric. “Bad Bread and the “Outrageous Drunkenness of the Turks”: Food and Identity in the Accounts of Early Modern European Travelers to the Ottoman Empire.” Journal of World History 25 (2014): 203-28.

Ener, Mine. Managing Egypt’s poor and the politics of benevolence, 1800-1952.  Princeton: Princeton Univ. Press, 2003.

Farmer, Tessa. “The Humble Tomato,” Middle East Research and Information Project. Accessed June 25, 2017. http://www.merip.org/humble-tomato.

Faroqhi, Suraiya, and Christoph K. Neumann, eds. The illuminated table, the prosperous house. Food and shelter in Ottoman material culture. edited by Institut Orient, Beiruter Texte und Studien; 73: Türkische Welten; 4. Würzburg: Ergon, 2003.

Foltz, Richard C. Animals in Islamic tradition and Muslim cultures.  Oxford: Oneworld, 2006.

Francesca, Ersilia. “Dietary law.” Encyclopaedia of Islam 3. Leiden: Brill Online, 2015.

Freidenreich, David M. Foreigners and Their Food: Constructing Otherness in Jewish, Christian, and Islamic Law. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2011.

Gvion, Liora. Beyond Hummus and Falafel: Social and Political Aspects of Palestinian Food in Israel. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012.

Heine, Peter. Food Culture in the Near East, Middle East, and North Africa. Westport, Conn: Greenwood Press, 2004.

Heine, Peter. Weinstudien. Untersuchungen zu Anbau, Produktion und Konsum des Weins im arabisch-islamischen Mittelalter. Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, 1982.

Heine, Peter. “Nabīḏ.” In Encyclopaedia of Islam. Leiden: Brill Online, 1993.

Kennedy, Philip F. The wine song in classical Arabic poetry. Abū Nuwās and the literary tradition. Oxford oriental monographs.  Oxford: Clarendon, 1997.

Halıcı, Nevin. Sufi Cuisine. London: Saqi, 2005.

Hassan-Wassef, Habiba. “Food Habits of the Egyptians: Newly Emerging Trends.” La Revue de Santé de La Méditerranée Orientale 10, no. 6 (2004): 898–915.

Holden, Stacy. The Politics of Food in Modern Morocco. University Press of Florida, 2009.

Houbaida, Mohamed. Le Maroc végétarien, 15ème-18ème siècles: histoire et biologie. Casablanca: Editions Wallada, 2008.

Hourani, Cecil. Jordan: The Land & the Table. London: Elliott & Thompson, 2006.

Khalil, Jahd. “The Land of Pharaohs and Omaha Beef Liver.” Omaha Magazine, August 6, 2017. http://omahamagazine.com/articles/the-land-of-pharaohs-and-omaha-beef-liver/.

Laudan, Rachel. Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History. Berkeley, California: University of California Press, 2013.

Lewicka, Paulina B. “Diet as Culture. On the Medical Context of Food Consumption in the Medieval Middle East.” History Compass 12, no. 7 (2014): 607–17.

Lewicka, Paulina B. Food and Foodways of Medieval Cairenes: Aspects of Life in an Islamic Metropolis of the Eastern Mediterranean. Leiden, Boston: Brill, 2011.

Ma7sool Productions. Series of short films about regional food heritage in Egypt. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxHjdqEgudA8ScWFMhcDkdA.

Meneley, Anne. “Blood Sweat and Tears in a Bottle of Palestinian Extra-Virgin Olive Oil.” Food, Culture & Society 14 (2011): 275–92.

Meneley, Anne. “Discourses of Distinction in Contemporary Palestinian Extra-Virgin Olive Oil Production.” Food and Foodways 22 (2014): 48–64.

Mikhail, Alan. “The Heart’s Desire. Gender, Urban Space, and the Ottoman Coffee House.” In Ottoman Tulips, Ottoman Coffee, edited by Dana Sajdi, 133-70. London: Tauris, 2007.

Mikhail, Alan. Nature and Empire in Ottoman Egypt: An Environmental History. Studies in Environment and History. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2011.

Mikhail, Alan. The Animal in Ottoman Egypt. New York: Oxford University Press, 2014.

Mikhail, Alan, ed. Water on Sand: Environmental Histories of the Middle East and North Africa. New York: Oxford University Press, 2013.

Nabhan, Gary Paul. Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2014.

Naguib, Nefissa. Nurturing Masculinities: Men, Food, and Family in Contemporary Egypt. Austin: University of Texas Press, 2015.

Quataert, Donald, ed. Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550-1922: An Introduction. SUNY Series in the Social and Economic History of the Middle East. Albany: State University of New York Press, 2000.

Rodinson, Maxime, A. J. Arberry, and Charles Perry, eds. Medieval Arab Cookery: Al-Ṭabīkh Al-ʻArabī Fī al-ʻuṣūr al-Wusṭa. Devon, England: Prospect Books, 2006.

Rosenberger, Bernard. Société, pouvoir et alimentation nourriture et précarité au Maroc précolonial. Rabat-Ryad: Alizés, 2001.

Schewe, Eric. “How War Shaped Egypt’s National Bread Loaf.” Comparative Studies of South Asia, Africa and the Middle East 37, no. 1 (January 1, 2017): 49–63.

Schrode, Paula. Sunnitisch-islamische Diskurse zu Halal-Ernährung. Konstituierung religiöser Praxis und sozialer Positionierung unter Muslimen in Deutschland. Ergon-Verl, 2010.

Singer, Amy, ed. Starting with Food: Culinary Approaches to Ottoman History. Princeton: Markus Wiener Publishers, 2011.

Singer, Amy. Constructing Ottoman beneficence: an imperial soup kitchen in Jerusalem. SUNY Series in Near Eastern Studies. Albany, NY: State Univ. of New York Press, 2002.

Tanielian, Melanie S. “Feeding the City: The Beirut municipality and the politics of food during World War One.” Journal of Middle East Studies 46 (2014): 737-58.

Trépanier, Nicolas. Foodways and Daily Life in Medieval Anatolia: A New Social History. Austin, TX: University of Texas Press, 2014.

Waines, David, ed. Food Culture and Health in Pre-Modern Islamic Societies. Leiden, Boston: Brill, 2011.

Zaouali, Lilia. Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World: A Concise History with 174 Recipes. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007.

Zubaida, Sami. “The idea of ‘Indian food’, between the colonial and the global.” Food and History 7 (2009): 191-209.

Zubaida, Sami, and Richard Tapper, eds. A Taste of Thyme: Culinary Cultures of the Middle East. New York: Tauris Parke Paperbacks; Distributed in the United States by St. Martin’s Press, 2000. [Published by I.B. Tauris, 1994]

Zurayk, Rami and Sami Abdul Rahman. From Akkar to Amel: Lebanon’s Slow Food Trail. Slow Food Beirut. http://www.slowfoodbeirut.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/From-Akkar-to-Amel-Inside.pdf.

Cookbooks & About Cookbooks

Rather than a comprehensive list of cookbooks of Middle Eastern cooking (too many!), I’ve sought to include cookbooks of particular historical or cultural significance: the earliest print cookbooks from a particular country, cookbooks from the Arabic manuscript tradition, or cookbooks that present exceptional ethnographic or historical research.

Batmanglij, Najmieh. A Taste of Persia: An Introduction to Persian Cooking. Washington, DC: Mage Publishers, 1999.

Bennani-Smires, Latifa. La Cuisine marocaine. Casablanca: Alpha, 1970.

Bute, John Crichton-Stuart. Moorish Recipes. London: Kegan Paul, 2005.

“Dar Anahita: Medieval Near & Middle Eastern Cookbooks.” Accessed June 24, 2017. http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/Misc_ME_Food/MECookbooks.html.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Traditional Moroccan Cooking: Recipes from Fez. London: Serif, 2003.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Fès vu par sa cuisine. Rabat: J.E. Laurent, 1957.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Les secrets des cuisines en terre marocaine. Paris: Sochpresse, 1981.

El-Haddad, Laila M., and Maggie Schmitt. The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey. Charlottesville, Va: Just World Books, 2012.

Hal, Fatema. The Food of Morocco: Authentic Recipes from the North African Coast. North Clarendon, Vermont: Tuttle Publishing, 2014.

Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan. A Baghdad Cookery Book: The Book of Dishes (Kitāb Al-Ṭabīkh). Trans. Charles Perry. Petits Propos Culinaries 79. Totnes: Prospect, 2005.

Nasrallah, Nawal, “In My Iraqi Kitchen: Recipes, History and Culture,” http://nawalcooking.blogspot.com/.

Nasrallah, Nawal, ed. Annals of the caliphs’ kitchens. Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq’s tenth-century Baghdadi cookbook, Islamic history and civilization: Studies and texts; 70. Leiden: Brill, 2007.

Roden, Claudia. A Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Vintage Books, 1974, and The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2000.

Roden, Claudia. Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon. New York: Knopf, 2006.

Roden, Claudia. The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York. New York: Knopf, 1996.

Roden, Claudia. Scents and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook. Trans. Charles Perry. New York & Abu Dhabi: Library of Arabic Literature, 2017.

Vehel, J. La cuisine tunisienne: manuel pratique et complet. Tunis: J. Saliba, 1922.

Waines, David. In a Caliph’s Kitchen. Mediaeval Arabic Cooking for the Modern Gourmet.  London: Riad el Rayyes Books, 1989.

Wright, Clifford A. Cucina Paradiso: The Heavenly Food of Sicily. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1992.