foodways in the middle east & north africa: a bibliography

This is a work in progress, and will be updated every few months. Currently the list is primarily works in English, although it’s slowly expanding to include others. Thus far I have focused (not exclusively) on historical and cultural studies and cookbooks, rather than policy or scientific publications, based on what I know and my own research interests.

Suggestions for new additions are welcome! ann [dot] gaul [at] gmail [dot] com.

History & Culture

This list includes academic books and articles in addition to blogs, websites, and publications by outlets such as Slow Food chapters in the region.

El-Ariss, Tarek. Trials of Arab Modernity: Literary Affects and the New Political. New York: Fordham University Press, 2013.

Awad, Mohamed, Saḥar Ḥammūdah, and Alexandria and Mediterranean Research Center. A Taste of Alexandria: A Cosmopolitan Flavor, 2009.

Babar, Zahra and Suzi Mirgani, eds. Food Security in the Middle East. Oxford, New York: Oxford University Press, USA, 2014.

Çelik, Semih. “Between History of Humanitarianism and Humanitarianization of History. A Discussion on Ottoman Help for the Victims of the Great Irish Famine, 1845-1852.” WerkstattGeschichte 68 (2015): 13-27.

Ciezadlo, Annia. Day of Honey: A Memoir of Food, Love, and War. New York: Free Press, 2012.

Cook, Michael. “Early Islamic Dietary Law.” Jerusalem Studies in Arabic and Islam 7 (1986): 218-77.

Dmitriev, Kirill. “Poetičeskaya škola al-Ḥīry i istoki arabskoy vinnoy poesii na primere qāfiyyi ʿAdī ibn Zayda al-ʿIbādī” (Russian: The Poetry School of al-Ḥīra and the Origins of the Arabic Wine Song: the qāfiyya of ʿAdī ibn Zayd al-ʿIbādī), in Symbol 58: Syriaca and Arabica, ed. Nikolay Seleznyov, Moscow and Paris 2010, 319–339.

Dursteler, Eric. “Infidel Foods: Food and Identity in Early Modern Ottoman Travel Literature.” Osmanlı Araștırmaları / The Journal of Ottoman Studies 39 (2012): 143-60.

Dursteler, Eric. “Bad Bread and the “Outrageous Drunkenness of the Turks”: Food and Identity in the Accounts of Early Modern European Travelers to the Ottoman Empire.” Journal of World History 25 (2014): 203-28.

Ener, Mine. Managing Egypt’s poor and the politics of benevolence, 1800-1952.  Princeton: Princeton Univ. Press, 2003.

Farmer, Tessa. “The Humble Tomato,” Middle East Research and Information Project. Accessed June 25, 2017.

Faroqhi, Suraiya, and Christoph K. Neumann, eds. The illuminated table, the prosperous house. Food and shelter in Ottoman material culture. edited by Institut Orient, Beiruter Texte und Studien; 73: Türkische Welten; 4. Würzburg: Ergon, 2003.

Foltz, Richard C. Animals in Islamic tradition and Muslim cultures.  Oxford: Oneworld, 2006.

Francesca, Ersilia. “Dietary law.” Encyclopaedia of Islam 3. Leiden: Brill Online, 2015.

Freidenreich, David M. Foreigners and Their Food: Constructing Otherness in Jewish, Christian, and Islamic Law. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2011.

Gvion, Liora. Beyond Hummus and Falafel: Social and Political Aspects of Palestinian Food in Israel. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012.

Heine, Peter. Food Culture in the Near East, Middle East, and North Africa. Westport, Conn: Greenwood Press, 2004.

Heine, Peter. Weinstudien. Untersuchungen zu Anbau, Produktion und Konsum des Weins im arabisch-islamischen Mittelalter. Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, 1982.

Heine, Peter. “Nabīḏ.” In Encyclopaedia of Islam. Leiden: Brill Online, 1993.

Kennedy, Philip F. The wine song in classical Arabic poetry. Abū Nuwās and the literary tradition. Oxford oriental monographs.  Oxford: Clarendon, 1997.

Halıcı, Nevin. Sufi Cuisine. London: Saqi, 2005.

Hassan-Wassef, Habiba. “Food Habits of the Egyptians: Newly Emerging Trends.” La Revue de Santé de La Méditerranée Orientale 10, no. 6 (2004): 898–915.

Holden, Stacy. The Politics of Food in Modern Morocco. University Press of Florida, 2009.

Houbaida, Mohamed. Le Maroc végétarien, 15ème-18ème siècles: histoire et biologie. Casablanca: Editions Wallada, 2008.

Hourani, Cecil. Jordan: The Land & the Table. London: Elliott & Thompson, 2006.

Khalil, Jahd. “The Land of Pharaohs and Omaha Beef Liver.” Omaha Magazine, August 6, 2017.

Laudan, Rachel. Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History. Berkeley, California: University of California Press, 2013.

Lewicka, Paulina B. “Diet as Culture. On the Medical Context of Food Consumption in the Medieval Middle East.” History Compass 12, no. 7 (2014): 607–17.

Lewicka, Paulina B. Food and Foodways of Medieval Cairenes: Aspects of Life in an Islamic Metropolis of the Eastern Mediterranean. Leiden, Boston: Brill, 2011.

Ma7sool Productions. Series of short films about regional food heritage in Egypt.

Meneley, Anne. “Blood Sweat and Tears in a Bottle of Palestinian Extra-Virgin Olive Oil.” Food, Culture & Society 14 (2011): 275–92.

Meneley, Anne. “Discourses of Distinction in Contemporary Palestinian Extra-Virgin Olive Oil Production.” Food and Foodways 22 (2014): 48–64.

Mikhail, Alan. “The Heart’s Desire. Gender, Urban Space, and the Ottoman Coffee House.” In Ottoman Tulips, Ottoman Coffee, edited by Dana Sajdi, 133-70. London: Tauris, 2007.

Mikhail, Alan. Nature and Empire in Ottoman Egypt: An Environmental History. Studies in Environment and History. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2011.

Mikhail, Alan. The Animal in Ottoman Egypt. New York: Oxford University Press, 2014.

Mikhail, Alan, ed. Water on Sand: Environmental Histories of the Middle East and North Africa. New York: Oxford University Press, 2013.

Nabhan, Gary Paul. Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2014.

Naguib, Nefissa. Nurturing Masculinities: Men, Food, and Family in Contemporary Egypt. Austin: University of Texas Press, 2015.

Quataert, Donald, ed. Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550-1922: An Introduction. SUNY Series in the Social and Economic History of the Middle East. Albany: State University of New York Press, 2000.

Rodinson, Maxime, A. J. Arberry, and Charles Perry, eds. Medieval Arab Cookery: Al-Ṭabīkh Al-ʻArabī Fī al-ʻuṣūr al-Wusṭa. Devon, England: Prospect Books, 2006.

Rosenberger, Bernard. Société, pouvoir et alimentation nourriture et précarité au Maroc précolonial. Rabat-Ryad: Alizés, 2001.

Schewe, Eric. “How War Shaped Egypt’s National Bread Loaf.” Comparative Studies of South Asia, Africa and the Middle East 37, no. 1 (January 1, 2017): 49–63.

Schrode, Paula. Sunnitisch-islamische Diskurse zu Halal-Ernährung. Konstituierung religiöser Praxis und sozialer Positionierung unter Muslimen in Deutschland. Ergon-Verl, 2010.

Singer, Amy, ed. Starting with Food: Culinary Approaches to Ottoman History. Princeton: Markus Wiener Publishers, 2011.

Singer, Amy. Constructing Ottoman beneficence: an imperial soup kitchen in Jerusalem. SUNY Series in Near Eastern Studies. Albany, NY: State Univ. of New York Press, 2002.

Tanielian, Melanie S. “Feeding the City: The Beirut municipality and the politics of food during World War One.” Journal of Middle East Studies 46 (2014): 737-58.

Trépanier, Nicolas. Foodways and Daily Life in Medieval Anatolia: A New Social History. Austin, TX: University of Texas Press, 2014.

Waines, David, ed. Food Culture and Health in Pre-Modern Islamic Societies. Leiden, Boston: Brill, 2011.

Zaouali, Lilia. Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World: A Concise History with 174 Recipes. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007.

Zubaida, Sami. “The idea of ‘Indian food’, between the colonial and the global.” Food and History 7 (2009): 191-209.

Zubaida, Sami, and Richard Tapper, eds. A Taste of Thyme: Culinary Cultures of the Middle East. New York: Tauris Parke Paperbacks; Distributed in the United States by St. Martin’s Press, 2000. [Published by I.B. Tauris, 1994]

Zurayk, Rami and Sami Abdul Rahman. From Akkar to Amel: Lebanon’s Slow Food Trail. Slow Food Beirut.

Cookbooks & About Cookbooks

Rather than a comprehensive list of cookbooks of Middle Eastern cooking (too many!), I’ve sought to include cookbooks of particular historical or cultural significance: the earliest print cookbooks from a particular country, cookbooks from the Arabic manuscript tradition, or cookbooks that present exceptional ethnographic or historical research.

Batmanglij, Najmieh. A Taste of Persia: An Introduction to Persian Cooking. Washington, DC: Mage Publishers, 1999.

Bennani-Smires, Latifa. La Cuisine marocaine. Casablanca: Alpha, 1970.

Bute, John Crichton-Stuart. Moorish Recipes. London: Kegan Paul, 2005.

“Dar Anahita: Medieval Near & Middle Eastern Cookbooks.” Accessed June 24, 2017.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Traditional Moroccan Cooking: Recipes from Fez. London: Serif, 2003.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Fès vu par sa cuisine. Rabat: J.E. Laurent, 1957.

Guinaudeau, Zette. Les secrets des cuisines en terre marocaine. Paris: Sochpresse, 1981.

El-Haddad, Laila M., and Maggie Schmitt. The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey. Charlottesville, Va: Just World Books, 2012.

Hal, Fatema. The Food of Morocco: Authentic Recipes from the North African Coast. North Clarendon, Vermont: Tuttle Publishing, 2014.

Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan. A Baghdad Cookery Book: The Book of Dishes (Kitāb Al-Ṭabīkh). Trans. Charles Perry. Petits Propos Culinaries 79. Totnes: Prospect, 2005.

Nasrallah, Nawal, “In My Iraqi Kitchen: Recipes, History and Culture,”

Nasrallah, Nawal, ed. Annals of the caliphs’ kitchens. Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq’s tenth-century Baghdadi cookbook, Islamic history and civilization: Studies and texts; 70. Leiden: Brill, 2007.

Roden, Claudia. A Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Vintage Books, 1974, and The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2000.

Roden, Claudia. Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon. New York: Knopf, 2006.

Roden, Claudia. The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York. New York: Knopf, 1996.

Roden, Claudia. Scents and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook. Trans. Charles Perry. New York & Abu Dhabi: Library of Arabic Literature, 2017.

Vehel, J. La cuisine tunisienne: manuel pratique et complet. Tunis: J. Saliba, 1922.

Waines, David. In a Caliph’s Kitchen. Mediaeval Arabic Cooking for the Modern Gourmet.  London: Riad el Rayyes Books, 1989.

Wright, Clifford A. Cucina Paradiso: The Heavenly Food of Sicily. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1992.