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cooking with gaul

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January 16, 2017January 16, 2017

amuse-bouche: zucchini nest

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December 31, 2016January 2, 2017

egyptian risotto

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September 14, 2016

pause-café

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August 5, 2016August 5, 2016

a cold soup of cucumber

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July 17, 2016July 17, 2016

kousa mabshoura: zucchini & mint

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June 16, 2016June 16, 2016

The Recipe as Colonial Archive, Part 3: Seven Salads

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February 24, 2016February 25, 2016

Sharkasiyya: Circassian Chicken with Walnut Sauce

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January 25, 2016January 25, 2016

blizzard menus for snowy days

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October 13, 2015January 25, 2016

a fig salad for difficult conversations

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I study culinary history and literature in North Africa and the Arabic speaking world; this blog is a record of what happens when I put my research and passions into play at my own stove. I focus on flavors & dishes from across the Middle East and North Africa––with a few large dashes of historical research & cultural commentary.

While most of the recipes featured here hail from the Middle East & North Africa or elsewhere in the Mediterranean, I also love to cook anything that happens to be in season. A recipe index lists all recipes alphabetically; you can also browse by category or search for keywords below.

For less cooking and more history & literature, check out my research blog. You can read more about my work and other writing here.

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  • (more) about the blog
  • food & foodways in the middle east & north africa: a bibliography
  • ful, koshari, macarona bechamel
  • recipe index
  • resources for thinking about food

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The archives: previous posts

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Can an Egyptian culinary technique lend enough oomph and umami to make a vegetarian cassoulet truly richly satisfying? Watch this space. Pictured: roasted butternut squash and garlic to mix in the final stew as sweet-savory bites in lieu of meat & chopped celery and leek and onion ready to make some magic. Inspiration from veg cassoulets at @themoorcock and @doublelocks.
Wondering what you might do with those gorgeous sour cherries at the farmer’s market? Pit them, juice them, & use them in cocktails in lieu of lemon juice or sour mix. Pictured here: a sidecar with 1.5 oz cognac, 1 oz Cointreau, 3/4 oz sour cherry juice. Shake over ice & strain. Extra thanks to @antoniotahhan for inspiring me to juice delicious sour things today!
Scenes from Yorkshire: strong penguin window display game / picnic in the wood / views of the Dales / RHS Garden Harlow Carr / post-afternoon tea carnage
Latest from the blog: a recap of my interview with @anasatassi organized by @warscapes last December, with some snapshots of a handful of my favorite recipes, techniques, & serving suggestions from & inspired by Atassi’s wonderful cookbook Sumac: Recipes & Stories from Syria. A cookbook that embodies nafas as something that exists between the realm of written recipes and social worlds—something you can’t see but can certainly taste—and celebrates cuisine as the product of collective authorship, creativity, and care. Links to the post and the interview in bio.
Next up in #CookingWithTona🥕: a recipe so extremely loosely inspired by Molly O’Neill’s A Well-Seasoned Appetite that it became something else entirely, stemming mostly from the contents of my fridge. These included not enough leftover homemade tomato sauce to make pasta with, one piece of bacon, kale, an orange. Mixed in with some beans from the pantry…
Next up in #CookingWithTona🥕: a kale & sausage stew from Molly O’Neill’s A Well-Seasoned Appetite (1995). The genius element of this particular recipe that I’d never have come up with on my own: using balsamic vinegar to season the stew, which layered a totally different kind of acidity and flavor than my usual squeeze of lemon; perfect for a dark cozy winter day. Also pictured: the gorgeous fruit & vegetable themed floor mat my brilliant artist mother @lishnc created for my kitchen!

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